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Refining our food system: 'Supersize' vs. 'Have
it your way'
Is
there room for growing niche markets in the global food system?
Or will this movement toward personal choice and alternative
foods be stifled?
In
his discerning article, "The Collapse of Globalism" (Harper's
March 2004), John Ralston Saul announced that our
"globalization, with its technocratic and technological
determinism and market idolatry ... is dead."
Saul points out that "grand economic theories rarely last more
than a few decades"-- generally 30 to 40 years. Our own
globalization theory was launched in the 1970s and signs of its
decline are now evident. Marvin Zonis, Dan Lefkovitz and Sam
Wilkin come to similar conclusions in The Kimchi Matters:
Global Business and Local Politics in a Crisis-Driven World
(Agate 2003). Saul suggests that the only reason globalization
seems viable to many of us is due to "our continued shared
devotion to the cause."
Having a real choice
But "devotion to the cause" is becoming increasingly
difficult in the face of emerging trends. One of those trends is
the public's growing insistence on having real choices with
respect to food. The global food system increasingly wants
people to eat what the system provides. Don't ask where the food
came from, who grew it, how it was grown, what's in it or how
far it traveled -- just eat it!
In other words, the global food system wants to impose its food
choices on food customers. It wants people to have a say about
what they put into their collective stomachs only when they can
back up their requests with "the hardest of hard scientific
evidence," as Saul puts it.
Saul argues, correctly I think, that globalism in agriculture
has created flash points for far broader public concerns, which
include mad cow disease, global warming and the availability of
pharmaceuticals in the developing world. To the average citizen,
it seemed that corporate structures "sought profits by limiting
choice" --ot the best way to endear themselves to their
customers. As Saul reminds us, "Globalization has felt like an
inevitability and, so, like tyranny."
The real question now is whether the rejection of globalization
will be played out as reactionary, isolationist and fuel for
terrorism, or as a positive new nationalism that celebrates
democracy and personal choice. Part of the answer is probably
rooted in the opportunities, or lack of them, in the market
place, especially where food is concerned. Saul points out that
the end of globalization provides us with numerous new market
opportunities.
Alternatives under attack
For more than a decade, alternative food production systems
have offered consumers a wide range of choices -- locally grown,
place-based, produced using specific practices, special quality
features, etc. Markets for these unique products have been
growing rapidly, especially in the food service industry.
These emerging markets are sometimes attacked by global
industries because they appear to threaten the dominance of the
global food system. Discrediting the "science" of alternative
foods seems to be a favorite line of attack. Food from global
systems is based on "sound science, not sound bites," as one
attack ad puts it.
Another line of attack is that there really is no difference
between food from global food systems and food from alternative
systems. "Milk is milk," according to one attack against organic
dairy products. But if globalization itself is in decline, then
such reactionary tactics will likely fail.
In view of the shift from globalization to nationalism,
governments also would be wise to support policies that enhance
rather than restrict personal choice. There appear to be some
efforts underway, for example, that would make it a violation of
global trade rules to label foods with local attributes, such as
locally grown or locally produced. If true, such heavy-handed
strategies would only push emerging nationalism in a negative,
reactionary direction rather than a positive, market-driven
direction.
New opportunities
Emerging markets also may provide new opportunities for
those farmers who fall between the direct markets and the
mass-produced, commodity markets. According to 2002 agricultural
census data, during the past five years Iowa lost more than 17
percent of its midsize farmers (annual gross sales between
$5,000 and $500,000). Most other states saw similar declines.
Yet these farmers in the "middle" can probably best produce the
varied products that give food customers the choices they want
in sufficient quantity to meet market demand. Farms under $5,000
in gross sales will not be able to supply a sufficient quantity
of these unique products, in an efficient manner, to sustain a
significant market. Very large commodity farms will find it
difficult to remain flexible and innovative enough to meet
changing demands or provide the array of unique products for
this market. In these new markets, the comparative advantage
goes to farmers in the middle.
Helping midsize farmers
Doing the research and promoting partnerships to create
value chains that connect farmers in the middle with new
customers of the post-globalization era is a priority for the
Leopold Center. Many of the projects in our marketing, policy
and ecology research initiatives focus on these "farmers in the
middle." We hope we can make a small contribution to the
evolution of a new positive nationalism that celebrates
democracy and personal choice. |