A Geography of Taste:
Iowa's Potential for Developing Traditional
and Place-Based Foods

Conclusions

The development of regionally based food products and GIs (Geographic Indications) in the European Union highlights a move away from a commodity-based agriculture toward a quality-based system with highly differentiated products that take advantage of the ecology and tradition of the specific region. These products cannot be grown elsewhere and labeled with the same name. GIs offer European consumers high-quality products with a unique story, and offer farmers a potential alternative to expansion as the only avenue to remain profitable through farming.

GIs have not been without challenges for European farmers. Consumer familiarity and understanding of GI classifications has been slower to achieve than anticipated; with less than a majority understanding that a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) signifies the product comes from a well defined region.* There also are reports of GI abuse where consumers are sold food products that were not grown or processed in the region identified with the food product. These marketplace abuses increase the legal fees of farmers, decrease their market opportunities, and undermine consumer confidence. In spite of these challenges, most European farmers view GIs as an important strategy to maintain profitability, product quality, and food tradition.

Iowa has a unique food history that has been heavily influenced by the state's ecology and the culture and traditions of its inhabitants. The perception of Iowa as a farm state by urban residents across the United States offers a competitive advantage in the development of place-based food brands linked to agritourism opportunities.

Although American consumers value local foods, it is unclear which traits of place-based foods they value the most, and how they would perceive such foods among the confusing array of other differentiated foods already in the market.

Study highlights uniqueness of Iowa's diverse foods and traditions

This paper should not be viewed as a call for Iowa to return to its agricultural heritage and compete with other states in producing an array of commodity-type foodstuffs when other states have competitive advantage for those products. Rather, the study of the integration of this food history, ecology, and culture can teach valuable lessons about what is unique and different in Iowa, and perhaps shed some light on how we can capitalize on those differences in the marketplace with a focus on place-based foods linked to agritourism and economic development.

Iowa's diverse food history and cultural traditions need further investigation in order to determine the state's potential for promoting place-based foods. One starting place for development of place-based foods in Iowa may be the grape and wine industry, in part because of the widespread acceptance that geographical origin of the grapes has an impact on the quality and taste of wines. The Missouri Regional Cuisines project has chosen grapes and wines as the initial focus of their pilot project for this reason. As noted earlier in this paper, one prominent Iowa winemaker predicts that it will take 15 to 20 years to develop Iowa wines that have true regional identity.

Other states such as New York and Missouri see the combination of place-based foods and agritourism as an important ingredient in the recipe for economic development in rural communities. Given its national perception as a rural agricultural state and a leader in alternative/sustainable agriculture, Iowa needs to explore this opportunity further as an option to increase economic development for its rural communities. The following section offers several recommendations to further research the potential of place-based foods in Iowa.

These actions recommend further research and exploration of the economic and community potential of place-based and traditional foods in Iowa:

  • Research and document Iowa's food production history of unique and highly differentiated food products, including food folklore and traditions

  • Use maps of Iowa's soils, geology, land cover, and food history to develop a detailed map that would integrate Iowa's distinct ecological regions with its geographic food history.

  • Conduct (or gather existing) case studies on the economic costs and benefits of U.S. food products that have certification marks.

  • Conduct consumer-based market research on which geographic-based traits are most likely to appeal to Iowa and Midwestern consumers.

  • Research the link between place-based foods and agritourism and how the two can function symbiotically to increase economic development of Iowa's rural communities.

  • Invite personnel from several regional and heritage food projects in the United States to visit Iowa and share information about how they developed and implemented their work.

  • Encourage the Iowa grape and wine industry to discuss how best to develop AVAs within the state and in collaboration with neighboring states.

  • Research and develop strategies to overcome the policy-related challenges to encourage production of place-based foods in Iowa, the Upper Midwest, and the United States.

  • Based on research described above, the state of Iowa should allocate funds to develop an appropriate place-based foods program linked to agritourism and economic development that will support Iowa's farmers and rural communities.
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